Wednesday, June 29th

No Chicken McNuggets in Tirana, nosiree...

So imagine you’re walking to work in the downtown area of the bustling capital city of _____ (your choice – Washington, Stockholm, Paris, Moscow, ok maybe not Dushanbe or Dar es Salaam though). You’re making your way along a busy street with other pedestrian commuters; late-model Mercedes Benzes and other more seasoned vehicles are whizzing by.  All of a sudden walking toward you comes a woman toting… a briefcase?  A purse?  A gym bag? A chicken?  Why yes; she is carrying, one in each hand, actually, a couple of enormous  rusty-colored chickens – carrying them by the feet, so their feathers are all fluffed out and they appear to be the size of small turkeys.  (Just another of those times when all you can do is take a mental snapshot and wish you could download it via USB cable to your laptop.)  A bit later I came to the place where the woman must have come from – a small shack on the edge of a traffic circle – and just as I was passing, a man was wrestling with another couple of chickens which were crying plaintively and fighting for their lives.  I had never heard a chicken cry before, but as I continued my hurried pace to work, I felt both sad and guilty that I hadn’t stopped to plead their case as I am sure that in the next minute, their necks were wrung and they became as lifeless as those I had seen earlier. ...so, what did I choose for lunch at the Embassy cafeteria?  Chicken.

That was yesterday morning. This morning’s walk was not quite so interesting, but I did have a fun morning.  The Regional Security Office’s ARSO (Asst. Regional Security Officer) took me out to the city of Tirana police shooting range where he periodically trains the Embassy armed guards.  Today 30 guards were practicing shooting Glocks and a semi-automatic rifle of some kind.  And of course midway through the practice, when the men were taking a rest, the ARSO let me try it out J.  So I was handed a Glock, given an abbreviated “Glock etiquette” briefing, and got to shoot 15 rounds into a target with the image of a swarthy, mustachioed man holding an AK-47.  All I will say is that I’m glad the man was only made out of cardboard.  He wouldn’t have stood a chance!

Today on my way home from work I finally mustered up the courage to check out the gym close to my apartment (and the apartment I’ll be moving to in a week or so).  As it turns out, it was not a challenging endeavor – a “Nuk flas Shqip” and a smile was all I needed for the man to dust off his broken but very understandable English – so I learned that a single visit costs 300 lëk (about $3.00), and an entire month costs 4500 ($45.00), while 13 visits in a month costs 3000 ($30.00).  Not a bad deal at all!  It’s a very small facility with maybe fifteen treadmills/elliptical machines and some weights.  And some aerobics classes!

Lastly for today – GOOD NEWS!  I got some pics of the Spelling Bee from the Tirana Embassy Facebook page!!  See below.  You’ll see me in the first picture – I’m in the back row, with my back turned – at that moment I was meeting the daughter of one of the ladies I was sitting next to J.

Spelling Bee kids; Christina in the back

A confident speller!

The three winners!

Sunday, June 26th

What is the correct spelling of the word “zig-zaggedly”??

Wednesday at the Embassy saw the arrival of 30 to 40 Albanian school children between the ages of 11 and 16 who had been invited to participate in a good, old-fashioned American spelling bee (such fixtures of our school system don’t exist in countries like Albania, where spelling is strictly phonetic). I was asked to help out – which, alas, didn’t mean much.  My role didn’t extend much beyond that of observer – which was fun anyway.  The children were so excited to be at the Embassy, and many parents were allowed to come as well.  I sat at the back next to two proud moms; I quickly rifled through my basic dictionary so I could ask, “bijë ose bir?” Daughter or son?  Both women pointed out their daughters .  One mom started to ask me some questions; I pulled out my by-now familiar phrase, “Nuk flas Shqip”, (I don’t speak Albanian), to which the woman smiled and responded (in English), “I know.”  She proceeded to tell me, in Italian, that she speaks some Italian, and I was able to nod and smile comprehendingly and understand maybe 15% of what she was saying.  Better than Albanian, anyway!!  So back to the spelling bee – the kids did great; you could definitely see who the advanced students were – as well as those who are more inclined toward languages.  I really wish I could have taken pictures, but no cameras allowed at the Embassy.  Some kids got up and rattled off the spelling as methodically and confidently as a robot; others struggled and got all tangled up in words like “exaggeration,” “lampoon,” or “villain,” but some words were ridiculous in their lack of real-life application, like “zig-zaggedly.”  I mean, really?  Even Microsoft Word doesn’t recognize it as I’m typing now.  Oh well.  The handful of really strong spellers in three age groups duked it out and the suspense was as thick as the American Idol Finale.  The three winners were lauded; the Deputy Chief of Mission (the Embassy’s #2) congratulated them in Albanian and English, and they were loaded down with all kinds of gifts and an official U.S. Embassy Spelling Bee Medal.  Very fun.

The Embassy occasionally plans events/outings for anyone who is interested, and this Friday was Bowling Night at the “Taiwan Center,” a large recreational-type center with video games, bowling, and I’m not sure what else. 600 lëk ($6.00) for an all-you-can-eat appetizer buffet and bowling from 7:00 to 10:00.  The Center is well-known for its colored fountain and park; it definitely appears to be a destination for many Tiranans in the evenings, when the temperatures get cooler after the heat of the day.  It’s about a 20-minute walk from my apartment; just far enough to be drenched in sweat upon arrival!  About 20 Embassy employees showed up; I had met most of them earlier during the week but it was great to hang out and get to know people on a social basis.  We actually bowled until close to 11:00; I walked home with no problem and didn’t feel unsafe.  Lots of people were out in the streets, and the streets were fairly well-lit.

Pedestrian pitfalls

Yesterday marked my first day actually exploring on my own and visiting some shops.  Priority #1 was to find some mosquito repellent, since I have discovered that Albanian mosquitoes, much like their American and Russian cousins, love me.  People don’t have screens on their windows, so the mosquitoes have no trouble accessing my unresisting, sleeping self. My friends Ned and Jorid told me exactly what to say to the store keeper:  “A keni ilaç mushkonjesh?” – Do you have mosquito medicine? The man looked at me rather haughtily and answered, in English, “Sure – we’ve got some over here; several kinds.”  After I made my selection and paid, I said, “Faleminderit shum” – Thank you very much, to which he responded, “No problem, have a good time.” !!  So much for my trying to assimilate…  At another store, Euromax, where I bought some olive oil and balsamic vinegar and gummy fish, the cashier rattled off a total in Albanian – she astutely noted my blank expression and wrote down “752” on a piece of paper, indicating what I owed.  Well, being in Albania is a lesson in humility if nothing else!  For more on that, read on…

As I was walking home, snapping a few pictures (shown here), I was approaching my street, Rruga Riza Cerova.  I stepped off the curb and the next thing I knew, I was sprawled out on the street!  It was such a surprise, I hadn’t even had a chance to break my fall.  I quickly scrambled up and glanced over at the little café 50 feet away where a half dozen men were sitting around presumably drinking their afternoon coffee; the chatter let up for a second and then continued; no one made a gesture.  So… I slunk into my apartment building and made it up to my 8^th floor apartment where I doctored up my “road rash,” a nice scrape on my knee/upper shin.  Nothing that some soap & water, hand sanitizer (ouch!) and Neosporin couldn’t handle, but it will be an unavoidable conversation piece for the next couple of weeks, conveniently located as it is – just below all of my dresses’ and skirts’ hem lines L.

Today, Sunday – as I left for church, I stopped to see what in the world could have caused me to fall flat like that.  Sure enough, right in the spot where one’s foot would naturally be planted after stepping off a curb was a nice, unobtrusive, foot-sized pothole.  So much for not watching every step, walking too fast, being distracted by taking pictures and carrying groceries…  Anyway – I met up with a woman named Sherry whom I’d met a week ago; she took me to her church, the Tirana International Assembly. The pastor is American and the sermons are translated from English into Albanian.  The congregation is pretty mixed between foreigners (Americans, Canadians, British, Indians, South Koreans, etc.) and Albanians.  After church, I got to know some new people as we went out for coffee (the local summer  coffee beverage is called a frappé). Then home; made a quick stop at the outdoor market next to my building to buy some tomatoes, cucumber, garlic, yummy-looking Albanian cookies and something that resembles baklava but apparently isn’t since when I asked, “Baklava?” The shopkeeper rattled off something long and complex until she saw that I wasn’t getting it J.

All for now!  Another work week starts tomorrow.  And next weekend, I may drive to Greece (Thessaloniki) with an Embassy co-worker who is headed to the beach with her son. 

Exchanging the day's gossip

Streetside bicycle shop and repair

Streetside furniture shop - chance for a leisurely game of checkers!

Jorid's amazing cactus with 24-hour blossom

View of Rruga e Elbasanit

First few days in Tirana

Hi everyone!

It is Tuesday, June 21 – day four since my arrival in Albania.  I was going to post earlier but things have been a little busy, plus the fact that I wasn’t able to download the few pictures that I’ve taken so far. My computer and camera weren’t communicating L.  However, today I had success so I won’t just have to post words, but a few pictures as well.

Saturday, June 18^th:  I was met at the airport by my college friend Ned Spiecker and his boys, Nathan and Marcus, as well as my long-time friend Lola, an Albanian woman I befriended in Chicago 20 years ago.  She is now back living in Albania, and I was thrilled to get to see her as well.  My luggage arrived safely with me – always reason for much rejoicing!!  On the ride from the airport, I saw lots of signs with words that appeared to be cognates of Latin- or Slavic-based languages but turned out not to be.  Like the sign that said “Mir se Vini,” which I thought was “World of Wines” but really was “Welcome” – a sort of convenience store! It is so strange to be able to decipher so few words and not to be able to communicate.  “Nuk flas Shqip” (pronounced Nook flahss sheep) means “I don’t speak Albanian.” 

I discovered to be true what I had read about prior to traveling:  summer in Albania is HOT!  June is somewhat reasonable, though, with temperatures “only” in the upper 80s and 90s.  Still, as the vast, vast, vast majority of Albanians don’t have A/C, the heat can really get to you very quickly.  Normal afternoon behavior is, apparently, to take a nap between 3 and 5 or 6; then everyone comes alive and the streets are busy with cars, people strolling, and restaurants/cafes full until late in the night.

Ned and his wife, Jorid (from Norway), are missionaries in Albania with YWAM – Youth With A Mission.  They are country leaders for YWAM in Albania (they’ve been here for 18 years) and work particularly to help build up families, teaching couples how to develop a strong marriage, parenting skills, etc.  They are great role models for the Albanians – a great marriage, and three fantastic kids (Nathan 14, Marcus 12, Lydia 11).

My first day, I stayed up until 10:00pm to try to get over jet lag as soon as possible – that evening, we went for a long walk through Tirana’s park (the only one, apparently), which is very extensive with lots of trees and greenery, winding asphalt paths that are full of people bicycling, strolling, jogging.  Ned & Jorid showed me where the US Embassy is, just 1.2 miles from their apartment. We had dinner at a sit-down restaurant with a fast food feel called “Big Bite.” Food is reasonably priced; a big salad and wrap-like sandwich cost about 600 lëk or $6.00.

My first night:  I slept 14 hours and got up at noon, only after Jorid had pounded on my door for awhile to make sure I was ok! Lunch of qofte (pronounced CHOF-teh), a spicy ground meat shaped into a fish stick- type shape and grilled, Norwegian potato salad and tomato/cucumber/pepper salad. 

Church in the late afternoon; some worship choruses had been translated from English; others were new to me and clearly Albanian.  Very cool to hear the Albanian singing and could follow along a bit since the words were projected on a screen. 

Monday:  up early to get ready for work.  Dress already ironed; bag packed.  Still, my plan to get out the door at 7:30 a.m. in order to walk the 1.2 mile distance didn’t quite happen – by the time I got out the door and down the slooow elevator from the 7^th floor, it was already 7:40! In my dress and relatively comfortable shoes (to be changed out of once I got to the Embassy), I speed-walked (I know no one can imagine that!), weaving in and out around the other people on the sidewalks, past shop keepers opening up their shops, sprinkling water on the sidewalk in front of their store or stand to keep the day’s dust at bay; past the tailor whose old sewing machine was already humming and the butcher who was hanging freshly skinned, whole lambs in his store front.  Down the Rruga Qemal Stafa about ½ mile to a wide central street, Rruga George W. Bush, take a left, past more shops and banks, across the canal, finally reaching the Embassy at 8:02!  Whew.  Already a hot day; speed walking is not the way to arrive at a new job with decorum J. My HR contact, with whom I’d e-mailed before leaving the States, was waiting for me and escorted me past security, onto the compound.

Monday was full of orientation training – a Cyber Security Awareness webinar and test (I passed), going around to different departments hearing their spiel (I felt like I was a new hire at America World Adoption!), etc.  I will be working mainly in the Regional Security Office (RSO).  One thing I can’t do is take my camera with me to the Embassy, so that means that most days, I won’t be able to take pictures.  Yesterday after work, I wandered around the neighborhood and took pictures as much as I dared – I didn’t want to draw too much attention to myself – will have to get over that!!  There are such great scenes that need to be captured J.  The men all huddled around a motorcycle that is being worked on right on the sidewalk; the old ladies that are animatedly chatting together; the old man riding a bicycle with his grandson sitting on the handle bars, the three wheeler motorized “dum-dum” motorcycle-carts that carry anything and everything.  I wish I could capture the smells on camera, but that will be an impossibility.  By the end of the day, those sheep hanging in the window are not quite so fresh!

Today, my second day – gave myself a bit more time to get to work. Still no substantive work – participated in some interesting meetings, helped draft some memos.  My supervisor will soon get sick of me saying, “Is there anything you’d like me to do??” Next week will be a big 4^th of July event (on June 30^th) for the community at large, and I will likely help with that in some capacity.

I will close for now but will write again soon.  Miss you all!  And I wish you could be experiencing Albania with me.



View from the Spieckers' apartment, 7th floor




Another view...




Rruga George W. Bush




A shop on my street




New friends :-)




Albanian flag




"My" street




The Spieckers recently got a swimming pool... very welcome addition to their great balcony!





Family dinner; clockwise:  Marcus, Christina, Jorid, friend Hannah, and Lydia

 


The Spieckers' apartment building they are on the top floor.



On my way

Ok, so this is my first-ever blog; thanks to Andrew Brown for helping me get it set up!  I am pretty much all packed after having made a huge list of everything I am bringing; haven't done such a long trip for awhile; 9+ weeks!  I am sure it will fly by, and hope that this format will help me to 'journal' about my trip. The last time I successfully 'trip journaled' was when I was nine years old and spent five months in Sweden with my grandmother.  We'll see how this one fares.

My flight is at 3:25pm tomorrow, Eastern Daylight Time; have two layovers in Frankfurt and Munich, then arriving in Tirana, Albania, which is 6 hours ahead of US East coast time.  I will be picked up by my longtime friends, Ned and Jorid Spiecker. Ned is a friend from college; Jorid is his Norwegian wife. They have three kids and have lived in Albania for about 15 years.  Another good friend, Flutur Nelson, will be at the airport too - an Albanian woman whom I met while living in Chicago years ago - she just returned to Albania last fall - I am so blessed to have friends to welcome me, and will stay in the Spieckers' home for awhile before I get settled in the apartment they found for me.